Oily and acne-prone skin: causes, effects and solutions

Spotlight on acne

Oily, shiny skin, a few little spots, a few blackheads on the cheeks or nose... The onset of acne that “ marks ” the start of puberty; excessive sensitivity of the sebaceous glands – which secrete too much sebum – to the sex hormones that flood the body at this important time in life. It’s a common concern as acne affects 83% of girls and 95% of boys. And, because its course is unpredictable, coming and going almost spontaneously, it should always be taken seriously and be treated properly.

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Medication: each type of acne has its own specific skincare.

Mild acne: comedolytic skincares (promoting the removal of blackheads) or local antibiotics to fight inflammation.
Moderate acne: when local skincares are not enough, they should be paired with oral antibiotics. And pay attention to sun exposure (risk of sensitivity): you must always protect your skin from the sun . Ask your doctor for advice.
Severe acne: the use of isotretinoin is often required. This is prescribed by your doctor as it requires strict precautions, especially when it comes to contraception. It generally has a really dramatic effect.

Your dermatologist or pharmacist will advise you on the hygiene or care products best suited to your skin and its condition.

In terms of skincare products, you should opt for:

gentle products to save your skin,
hydrating or emollient products to compensate for the dryness caused by certain skincares,
non-comedogenic products to prevent any new blackheads from forming...

...and in general, products that are specifically designed for acne-prone skin.

The different types of acne

Hyperseborrhea

This is the initial stage of any form of acne.

Excess sebum: the skin is shiny and little spots appear.

Induced xerosis

Skin dehydrated by products containing overly aggressive surfactants (soaps). Similarly, irritating treatments (retinoid, fruit acids) dry out the skin.

Stubborn acne

Sebum accumulates in the sebaceous follicles and causes open comedones (blackheads) or closed comedones (microcysts).

Inflammatory acne

Proliferation of bacteria (Propionibacterium acnes) and rupture of the follicle in the dermis; the appearance of inflammation and a red spot (papule) then infected (pustule).

Our expert answers your questions

Living better with acne-prone skin

These scars, visible on the skin, are the after-effects of acne spots. As soon as your acne is cured, contact your dermatologist who will advise you and suggest a suitable treatment (peeling, laser, etc.) to get rid of the scarring.

Don't be overzealous when washing... Don't try to " strip " your skin, you will only irritate it further. Treat it gently. Dermatological bars or cleansing gels " without soap " should be used and for makeup removal, use gentle daily care products.

Yes, but not just any old makeup... Carefully choose non-comedogenic products. That is the least you can do. And if you want to conceal a few small scars, Laboratoires Dermatologiques Avène has developed a full range of " covering " products that are effective and harmless.

Chocolate and processed meats pose no harm; the only thing to remember, of course, is to consume these in moderation... and to prioritise a healthy diet that will always be beneficial for your skin, as well as for your health in general.

When it comes to acne, the sun can be a hidden enemy that sometimes makes you think it is doing you good. In fact, when you expose yourself to the sun, spots dry out and any blackheads are masked by a tan. But microcysts form which come out when you return from your holidays. Recent acne scars exposed to the sun can leave an unsightly and persistent brownish spot. To prevent this from happening, protect your skin with moderate exposure at first and then use quality sunscreens. If you are taking acne medication, ask your dermatologist for advice before going on holiday as some treatments do not mix well with the sun.