They care about the featherweight formula, capable of meeting the needs of the most sensitive skin. The experts in the formulation of Eau Thermale Avène treatments are constantly working to develop formulas with just the right number of ingredients. An in-depth look with Catherine Bidan, Head of the Eau Thermale Avène formulation laboratory.
What are the special features of Eau Thermale Avène dermo-cosmetic treatments?
They contain an ingredient that is exclusive to us: Avène Thermal Spring Water, an active ingredient with soothing benefits, unique in its mineral and biological composition. Moreover, our formulas are so simple that they can be tolerated well by the most sensitive skin types: we make sure that our INCI lists are as short as possible, we are aiming for just what is essential. No glitter, no frills.
We also offer natural formulas and formulas that minimise our environmental impact: 90% of our rinse-off products (shower gel for example) are biodegradable* and we use non-ecotoxic sun filters**. And whatever the treatment, it is designed to be effective, with a pleasant texture, suitable for repeated application during the day, and above all, it needs to be well tolerated by the most sensitive skin.
*OECD 301B test, excluding country specific-products **Tests carried out by the Observatoire Océanologique de Banyuls-sur-Mer (Banyuls-sur-Mer Ocean Observatory) on representative species of coral, phytoplankton and zooplankton.
How do you ensure the safety of Eau Thermale Avène dermo-cosmetic products?
Every ingredient in our portfolio of raw materials is subject to the approval of our toxicology department. Once we’re given consent, we add the ingredients to our formulas, which are then also tested. Then we carry out tolerance tests using alternative methods and clinical tests. Only then do we decide whether to approve the product or not. Protocol, precision, requirements and ethics without doubt linked to our pharmaceutical culture.
No glitter, no frills. Whatever the treatment, it is designed to be safe, effective, well-tolerated, with a pleasant texture.
Why are there so few ingredients in the formulas of Eau Thermale Avène dermo-cosmetic products?
Because by limiting their number, we expose the skin less to the risk of reacting to one of them, this is a key point. But this is not the only way to avoid a possible reaction, the choice of ingredients is obviously also crucial; through all of this, we can hope for improved tolerance.
Our formulas also contain a reduced number of ingredients because we force ourselves to go much further than the regulations require. We anticipate risks by reducing specific preservatives, seeking to replace ingredients that are controversial, like silicone, silica, acrylate, etc. while ensuring the same tolerance, effectiveness and texture. That’s the challenge with minimalist formulas. It’s about being creative.
How do you read the INCI list on a cosmetic product?
The first ingredients mentioned are those that have the highest concentration in the formula. If your skin is sensitive, opt for formulas with the shortest INCI lists and avoid those containing colourants, essential oils and alcohol.
Sterile Cosmetics products are formulated without preservatives and fragrance and are made in a sterile environment.
Let’s take a closer look at Sterile Cosmetics: what exactly is Sterile Cosmetics?
It is a manufacturing standard that eliminates all types of preservatives (listed or not listed) from a cosmetic product. All the products concerned are thus formulated without preservatives and fragrance and are made in a sterile environment. They benefit from perfectly hermetically sealed packaging that ensures they are preserved and protects them from any risk of contamination after opening. Sterile Cosmetics treatments can therefore afford to contain only the active ingredients essential to their effectiveness. This can include up to six ingredients only selected for their perfect compatibility and their good level of tolerance with the most demanding skin types prone to unpredictable skin reactions. A major innovation.
